Not ready to leave your surfing experience just to the water? Us neither!
We have put our opinions together and come up with a shortlist of our best surfing books. With such a rich history full of charasmatic characters and stories galore it was not an easy task. But if you want to get stuck in to some summer surf reads then check out our suggestions!
Surfing is a sport that has a deep history and culture surrounding it. From the early days of surfing in Hawaii to the modern era of professional surfing, there are countless stories and experiences that have been captured in literature. If you’re a surfer or a surfing enthusiast, there are some fantastic books that you should add to your reading list. We have put our heads together and come up with some of the best surfing books that deserve to be checked out.
Mindfulness and Surfing: Reflections for Saltwater Souls by Sam Bleakley
A firm favourite from Cornish author and academic Sam Bleakley. Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Engaging author Sam Bleakley takes us on a soulful journey across the tideline of his personal and philosophical travels. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, he reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world.
Surf is Where You Find it by Gerry Lopez
Gerry Lopez is a legendary surfer who spent much of his career surfing in Hawaii. In Surf Is Where You Find It, he shares his thoughts on the sport and offers advice for surfers of all levels. The book is filled with stories from Lopez’s own experiences, as well as insights on technique, board design, and the cultural significance of surfing.
The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.
Da Bull: Life Over the Edge by Greg Noll
Greg Noll, known as Da Bull was a pioneer of big-wave surfing. Famous for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport, his approach to life in general wasn’t much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore.
Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard
“Let My People Go Surfing” is not a book purely about surfing. By Yvon Chouinard it is the story of US outdoor clothing and equipment company Patagonia, long regarded as a global pioneer in sustainability; and the ethos which has been fundamental to its existence and success. Ahead of its time, Patagonia has always put purpose before profit and has remained true to its values, despite phenomenal growth
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